Thursday, July 18, 2013

Size Matters


When I was a child, age in single digits, my Grandmother (paternal) would frequently drive from her home in Los Angeles to visit us.  Her days off were Tuesday and Wednesday.  She worked as a hostess/cashier for the Fred Harvey Company.  For those of you born after 1955, the Fred Harvey Company was a hospitality concern.  That is a phrase rarely heard these days, probably because civilization has decayed into an uncivilized state where the notion of hospitality has disappeared, but the hospitality industry was made up of hotels and restaurants. The Fred Harvey Company made its mark on American history by providing railroad hotels and restaurants along the passenger lines of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe.  My grandmother, Lula Fifield (I know, Fifield is not my family name… another story for another time) worked at the Harvey House Restaurant situated in the Union Station passenger depot in downtown Los Angeles (yet more stories for other times). None of this history has anything to do with the subject matter at hand but as this looks to be a rather short narrative, I thought I’d fill space with something I find infinitely fascinating, my story.
As it happens, I am the only child of an only child (my father, in case you’re having trouble keeping up) and as you might expect, I was fawned over; spoiled might be a more accurate application of language.  As my maternal grandmother had some forty-odd grandchildren spread between Kansas, Colorado and California, and I fell somewhere within the anonymity of the younger half of that menagerie, I knew in which direction to turn for affectionate dotage.
It was during my younger years, before starting school, that I was able to work this status of favorite person in the whole world to my best advantage.  Now I’m not trying to paint myself as a greedy little bastard, but every child is somewhat mercenary in nature.  It was our practice during her visits to patronize the College Grove Shopping Center (many more stories from my college years are set in this locale, but first I have to work up the courage to share… violence is sometimes hard to describe to a genteel audience) for toy shopping and lunch.  I loved Grandma.
One of my favorite haunts (and therefore, my Grandma’s) was J.J. Newberry’s Department Store.  Newberry’s was a five and ten cent store, or more commonly, a five and dime.  No one ever referred to them as nickel and dime because that phrase is pejorative; go figure.   If you are too young to remember, five and dimes abounded.  Every little town had one and any large city had a plethora. One would believe, logically, that anything within offered for sale would be priced at either five cents or (wait for it…) ten cents; a child’s dream! Never finding the reason, I did learn that the name was as misnomer and very few (very few!) of the items I would be interested in were priced below a dollar. But I digress.  Newberry’s was the Cadillac of five and dimes.  It had three features ideally suited to the mercantile needs of the five-year-old: a large toy department; a cafeteria style restaurant; and a lunch counter with full soda-fountain accoutrements.
Grandma would arrive at our house in the late morning.  We would then travel to College Grove; mother didn’t drive so she welcomed the rare opportunity to shun the daily household chores.  And as the outings were financed by Grandma, mom turned a blind eye to the extravagant excess laid at the feet of her son.  Dad of course was at work and it was tacitly agreed that no reason existed to burden him with details of the day’s outing. The rigor was quite simple.  We would begin with lunch in the upstairs cafeteria.  Laid before the puckish masses was a cornucopia of tantalizing entrees and side dishes; turkey, roast beef, fried chicken, soups, stews and salads of all description.  I opted for spaghetti (c’mon, I was five years old!). But our lunch never included any selections from the lavish desert offerings.  If you haven’t guessed why by now, I’m sure you will figure it out later.
After lunch (my mother could drink more coffee that a dromedary camel could horde water… let’s go already!!!) we would ride the escalator to the lower level and take a stroll through dreamland.  Newberry’s toy department was four aisles deep and extended well over my head.  The contract was simple; I feigned familial fealty and Grandma would reward the faithful.  I had a pecuniary limit of five dollars, pre-tax.  Grandma was always rather silent on the subject of hereditary history but I suspected she was somehow a member of the Claus Clan.
I’m sure that upon returning to Los Angeles my grandmother would brag ad nauseum to her crones of the skill with which her golden grandchild examined every offering that Mattel, Marx and Hasbro had convinced Newberry’s to stock on its shelves.  Time stood still for me.  I recall that mother often excused herself to the ladies room to relieve the pressure on her bladder from that fifth cup of coffee.
Once all of the options had been considered and reconsidered, the latest addition to my collection of militaria, plastic firearms (these were the days before political correctness) or to-scale motor vehicles was paid for (Grandma had a BankAmericard, forerunner to today’s VISA, oooh!) we set our course for the lunch counter and the frozen treats there offered; the coup de gras as it were.
Now remember, I was all of five years old at this time and reading was still a blossoming skill set for me.  But any company that planned its geography in a way that juxtaposed the toy department and the soda fountain was savvy enough to post pictures of the ice cream offerings on the wall behind the lunch counter.  Every visit, I would point to the picture representing what was obviously the largest of their offerings, the three scoop banana split.  I had no other criteria to fill than it contained the greatest volume of ice cream. My mother would immediately counter, “You don’t need that, it’s too much ice cream for you.”  In a rare show of intergenerational collaboration, Grandma would add, “You wouldn’t like it anyway.”  Blocked again!
I am going to interrupt the flow of this narrative for a moment to explore an aspect of the darker side of parental practice; incontrovertible logic.  I’m sure every parent uses this tool at some time and it is cruelty at its worst, “You don’t need that.” or more fatal, “Do you really need that?”  Huh?  When did need enter into the discussion or anything a five year old wants?  There is no capacity for reasoning through cost/benefit for a kid!  “I want it! I desire it! I lust after it!  It was endorsed by Bugs Bunny!”  That is all the motivation needed.  How can you expect a self-centered, mal-formed ego to understand need?  Yet time and time again, the parent, in an attempt to teach temperance for worldly possessions (and keep the household solvent) lays down the logical trump card, “Do you really need that?  Really?” The child of course has no adequate response.  And in my case, cursed with naturally squinty eyes, the sad pout never worked. Children know in their hearts true happiness is not measured in scoops of ice cream.  Once again, I settled for the kid size hot-fudge sundae.
But finally, the day came, seated at the counter, atop the swiveling stool (ingenious!) I again asked for the banana split.  And once again my mother parried, “You don’t need that!”  Unexpectedly, my grandmother replied, “Aw, Rosemary, let him have one.  He won’t like it and he’ll get over it.”  Grandma loved me… or so I thought.
After what seemed a lifetime of anticipation, the jerk (I’m not being derisive here for you youngsters, that was the position title of those employed to make fountain treats, soda jerks) set before me a glorious concoction of dairy and confectionary delight.
‘‘Three scoops of ice cream!  And what was all this other stuff?”  I went exploring.  “Hey, this scoop is strawberry,  I don’t like strawberry… it’s the flavor found in Neapolitan ice cream that gets thrown out after the vanilla and chocolate are gone.  And this yellow gooey stuff.  Yuck!  It’s pineapple sauce.  Who would put pineapple sauce on strawberry ice cream?”  Moving on, “Vanilla, that’s good.  But every time I try to spoon some up, it slides into that awful pineapple sauce and that’s getting mixed up with the chocolate sauce.” My stomach was starting to recoil making it hard to swallow.
Okay, I’ll move on to the scoop of chocolate ice cream.  It is insulated from the pink and yellow effluent at the other end of the boat (that’s what you call a banana split dish; a boat) by the vanilla. But what is this white stuff blanketing my chocolate? It’s marshmallow cream.  White, flavorless, sweet, “It’s diluting the chocolate.  It is ruining the food of the gods!”  The whipped cream is running all over the place… the ice cream is melting into a mélange of colorless, flavorless goo. And the banana, it’s hard to cut with a spoon.  Fruit and goo were flying everywhere, “I don’t like this; it’s sticky!”
Dutifully, my mother grabbed me off the swiveling stool and marched me to the ladies room to recover her son from under the patina of milk, sugar and chocolate sauce.  This was too big a job for spit on a hanky! I looked back to see Grandma settling the bill with the soda jerk.  They seemed to be laughing at some shared joke.

***


This week’s punch line: “No, but he’s a dead ringer for his brother!”

 

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