The weather during the last week of
February had been brutal. By that, I
mean it had been truly beautiful. That
is to say, the weather had been so beautiful for February as to be brutal to
one's state of mind. Spring fever was
running rampant everywhere. It seemed to
affect everyone and by no means did it avoid me. I truly believe any February day the high
temperature exceeds seventy-nine degrees should be a work holiday. Needless to say, very few employers agree,
not excluding my own.
I was operating under this state of
protracted distress when it suddenly occurred to me that the globe and its
community of men were approaching leap day; that extra day occurring but once
every four years as a correction to the error of the ancient designers of our modern
western calendar. Bestowed with all the
opportunity an extra day might offer, I resolved to spend it engaged in
activity that could be construed by no one as remotely constructive,
industrious or useful.
I chose, with the aforementioned
goal (or rather non-goal, as a goal implies constructive, industrial or useful
intent), to go to the desert and do whatever struck me as being completely
without purpose. Or rather, without any
purpose other than being purposeless of other than itself. Essentially, I was going to do something, so
that if a stranger had witnessed me thus engaged would immediately say to
himself, "What is he doing?"
And the reply would of course be, "Nothing!” Rarely has such effort been applied in the
name of non-achievement.
Armed thus with noble non-intent, I
struck forth for the desert. And I
arrived at a place, so colorfully inviting on the map, named Painted
Gorge. Now this gorge is quite an interesting
geological phenomenon. My guess would be
that it ran about a mile in its serpentine length. It was a good sixty to seventy feet from
floor to cliff top, the walls being quite sheer. The coloring of the walls was extremely
uniform in three distinct layers of earth:
The bottom layer rusty red, indicating a high iron content; the middle
layer pale and chalky, suggesting limestone; and finally, the uppermost dark
brownish gray, as if laid there by some ancient volcano. All in all, it gave one the impression he was
walking through a trough recently scooped out of a carton of Neapolitan ice
cream!
As I approached the closed end of
this image from a dream of the non-committal, I noted that it was shaped unlike
most ordinary gorges (or what I in my limited experience purported to be
ordinary, for certainly I have not seen every gorge, nor would I believe I have
seen a majority of the gorges, quite clearly I am sure that I have seen only a
few of the gorges of the world, and this makes my opinion quite unremarkable,
but I am the author of this story, so...)
Rather than continually narrowing, as most gorges do (No, we're not
going to go through that again!), this Painted Gorge opened into a roughly
circular shape of perhaps forty yards in diameter. And even stranger, is that the closed end of
the gorge was of a completely different geological type; this was sandstone and
uniformly tan in color (to perfect the analogy, English Toffee ice cream).
At the southern point of this circle
was a waterfall; dry of course. But this
fall was at least sixty feet in height and came from the sandstone side of the
terrain. At the foot of the fall, the
seasonal water had created a bowl approximately twelve feet in diameter and
five feet deep. The bottom two thirds of
this bowl was still mud from the recent rains.
The water had undercut the cliff that made up the fall so that this bowl
(or, if it had been full of water, pool) was half covered by a roof of
sandstone.
As I stood under this roof, I
wondered, "What idiot had thrown those large rocks into the mud
bowl?", and more importantly," Why?" After some time, because I like to give
questions of such great import abundant consideration, I realized that these
rocks had not been thrown into the mud, but had simply been following Sir
Isaac's laws regarding the tendency of bodies to attract one another. It was upon this foundation of thought that I
built my second hypothesis considering this phenomenon, "This is not a
good place for me, or anyone else had they been present, to stand." So I moved.
It then occurred to me that there
was not much else to do there in Painted Gorge.
But still I was yearning for adventure, not yet satisfied with the
amount of nothing I had thus far achieved.
So I determined, in a rather tentative way, that I would like to see
this (dry) waterfall from the top. Now
it happened that there were large boulders arranged on top of each other just
to the right of the fall, as I was facing it, which seemed from my vantage to
lead to the top of the cliff. And it
appeared to me that a skilled man might climb these boulders until he reached
the top. I decided to try it anyway.
If you have ever poured butter
toffee peanuts from one jar into another, you will have noticed that the
smaller peanuts and pieces end up on the bottom, while the larger pieces stay
on top. That is, quite obviously,
because the smaller pieces sift through the spaces left when the larger pieces
find resting places against one another.
The same is true of boulders, whether in a jar or not. Therefore, as you climb higher, you begin to
note that the distance from the top of one boulder to the next increases
proportionately with your distance from the base of the pile. You also find that the relative steepness of
the boulders is increasing as well.
After you have hoisted yourself up several boulders now averaging a
diameter greater than your own height, you begin to realize that you will not
return to the floor of the gorge by the same route. Not at a safe and reasonable velocity,
anyway.
I was now standing atop the narrow
edge of a boulder, narrow defined as three inches. The edges of my Vibram soled boots were
clinging to the clear desert air no matter which direction I turned my
feet. To one side, the up side was a
large rock with a wide flat perpendicular face about four and one-half feet in
height. The top of this rock was broad,
flat and extremely inviting. And I could
see from here that the next effort in attaining the top of the cliff would be
an easy one from there. On the other
side, the down side was a relatively sheer drop of about fifteen feet. So sheer that I would hardly have skinned
knee or elbow en route my broken back. I
had three choices: One was scaling that
boulder, with no toe holds, on the way to the top; two was retracing my path
back to the valley; three was hoping that whoever found my skeleton stuck in
one of these crevices would appreciate the .45 pistol I had left them and make
up a damned exciting story about my death that would someday become
legend. Not being one to give much
countenance to legends, I chose to go up.
The next issue was how to gain the
top of this rock I was leaning against.
I decided the safest approach was to turn my back to it, place my hands
on its flat top and hoist my rear up until I was sitting on it. In the first attempt, my canteen caught
against the face of the rock greatly retarding my upward progress. Now I love roller coasters, but being
suspended in mid-air hoping your boots are able to find that narrow foothold
again is a totally different thrill. I
determined that it would be necessary to remove my gun belt, thereby eliminating
the impedance of the aforementioned canteen to accomplish this feat. As I laid the belt on the top of this rock I
thought, "If I fail at this, the guy who finds my skeleton will probably
not find my gun and will never make up a damned exciting story about my death;"
so much for legend.
As I stood on the newly acquired
height, I noticed that the view of Painted Gorge below was much more enjoyable
from atop a broad flat platform. Or
maybe it was because I was now able to wipe the sweat from eyes and no longer
had to fight off the effects of vertigo.
I buckled my gun belt and continued to the top of the cliff. Life is
better (or at least somewhat less anxious) at the top.
The top of the cliff was much
different than the floor of the gorge.
There was quite a bit of vegetation and a good deal of it bore blooming
flowers. The topography was just
slightly rolling for several yards to the west and then broke further upward
into rocky hills. On the south side was
a wall of approximately eight feet. I
would guess that this wall was carved out of the sandstone by water working its
way downhill from the hills to the west.
For some reason the composition of this wall was more resilient than the
ground upon which I was standing. This
formation would cause water to be diverted to the east forming the falls and
Painted Gorge. I walked over to the top of the falls and looked down. I determined that I was thankful at not being
some flotsam riding a flash flood out of the hills.
My attention now turned to the task
of returning to Painted Gorge (that's where I left my truck... and lunch). In that I was not going to scale the
boulders, I started to search for another route. I had noticed a trail breaking into the gorge
from the north about halfway in. I
decided to move across country in a northerly direction in hopes of
intersecting this trail. To do this I
had to zigzag back and forth through washes and ravines. After about fifteen minutes I found the
trail. It was an easy walk back to the
gorge. I did note some other trails in
the hills to my north that would be an interesting trip, in a jeep.
Having finished lunch, I began
examining a map of the area. It showed
an inviting dirt road that led to the north.
This road eventually turned into a jeep trail that continued north to
intersect the Overland Stage Route. I
decided, still hoping to do more nothing, to drive up this road until it turned
into jeep trail. The map, however, did
not show the myriad of false trails that broke
from this road. And of course, not
knowing which of these trails was true; I had to make a choice at each
fork. What do you think are the odds of
choosing the wrong fork every time? Well, this experiment demonstrated a
probability of near 100%.
After an hour of testing road after
road, and seeing much interesting scenery, I must have made at least three
miles of true progress. At this point
the road (or maybe the jeep trail, for there are no signs to indicate the end
of one and the beginning of another) began to switchback up a rather formidable
mountain. I determined that the road was
still navigable by a truck like mine and began the climb. As I negotiated the switchbacks, they became
steeper, narrower and sharp to the point that I had to make the turns in two or
more moves. The composition of the road
was changing from hard packed dirt to loose gravel. I was pretty sure I had found the jeep trail.
With the negotiation of each
switchback, I considered the possibility of making the next one my turn around
point. But I had put a lot of effort
into the nothing I had accomplished thus far and was determined to continue
on. Finally I reached a switchback so
narrow, steep and gravelly that my truck would not continue up the trail. I got out to examine the situation. Dying of starvation sitting in the truck
might have been the smarter course of action.
The rear wheels were sitting in ruts
nearly to the axle. Behind the truck was
about ten feet of road before a drop of several hundred feet. The obvious choice was to proceed up the
mountain. My truck not being able to see
the logic of the obvious could purchase the traction necessary to advance up
the grade. I was therefore faced with
two options. The first was to get that
truck turned around and head back down the mountain. The second was to walk out and seek
help. The only thing worse than walking
out defeated is walking out defeated and then having some asshole laugh at you
while negotiating the price for winching your truck out of a situation you
should have been smart enough to avoid in the first place. I guess I was born to the cavalry because I
could not bring myself to walk out.
The effort involved in turning my
truck is more than written words can describe.
You really need hand gestures.
But it involved moving the truck blindly backwards a few feet, shifting
rocks around so I could get it going forward, and then repositioning the rocks
so I could get it going backwards toward the precipice again. Each time I moved backward I was aware that
the slightest over application of throttle might result in a large insurance
benefit... to my parents. The tires were
fighting for traction; sweat was running into my eyes, the smell of burning
rubber almost made me forget the dryness of my mouth. I wondered that great question asked by all
pioneers, "Am I gonna get outta this alive?"
As I stood there leaning against my
truck (now pointed safely down the trail) emptying my over taxed bladder, I
noticed how beautiful was the sunlit valley below. I was reminded of something I
had read by Louis L'Amour, “Adventure is just a romantic name
for trouble.
It sounds swell when you write about it, but it’s hell when you meet it face to
face in a dark and lonely place.” Deciding I had finally accomplished nothing,
I climbed into my truck and went home.